Build a classic wooden picture frame perfect for displaying your favorite photos or artwork. Takes about 2-3 hours and requires basic woodworking tools. Great for beginners learning to make mitered corners and work with small pieces of wood.
Measure the exact dimensions of the photo or artwork you want to frame. Add 1/8 inch to both height and width to ensure the art fits comfortably. Decide on your frame width (typically 1.5 to 3 inches works well for most pictures). Write down all measurements clearly.
Using your measurements, calculate how much wood you need for each side. For each piece, add extra length (about 6 inches total) to account for the mitered corners and any mistakes. Cut four pieces of wood molding to these rough lengths using a hand saw or miter saw.
Take one of your rough-cut pieces and mark where you'll make your first 45-degree miter cut on one end. Then measure from the inside edge of that cut to mark the exact length needed (the inner dimension of your frame). Mark where the second 45-degree cut will go on the opposite end.
Set your miter saw to 45 degrees. Cut one end of the marked piece, then flip it around and cut the other end at 45 degrees in the opposite direction so the angles mirror each other. The piece should now have two angled ends that will form corners. This is your template piece.
Use your first piece as a template to mark and cut the opposite side of the frame (the piece that will go parallel to it). Make sure both pieces are exactly the same length from inside edge to inside edge. These two pieces form the top and bottom OR the two sides of your frame.
Measure, mark, and cut the other two frame pieces the same way. These will be a different length if your frame isn't square. All four pieces should now have 45-degree mitered corners that will fit together to form a rectangle.
Sand each piece of wood thoroughly with medium-grit sandpaper (120-grit), then finish with fine-grit (220-grit). Pay special attention to the edges and corners. Wipe away all dust with a clean cloth before assembly.
Lay all four pieces on a flat surface and fit the mitered corners together without glue to make sure everything lines up properly. The corners should meet perfectly at 90-degree angles. If gaps appear, you may need to make small adjustments with sandpaper.
Apply a thin, even line of wood glue to both mitered surfaces of one corner. Don't use too much or it will squeeze out. Press the two pieces together firmly, making sure they're aligned perfectly at a 90-degree angle.
Use a corner clamp or band clamp to hold the glued corner tightly together. Wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out with a damp cloth immediately. Check that the corner is still at a perfect 90-degree angle.
Repeat the gluing and clamping process for each of the remaining three corners. Work on one corner at a time, or if you have enough clamps, you can do all corners at once. Make sure the frame stays flat and all corners are square.
Allow the frame to dry in the clamps for at least 2-4 hours, or preferably overnight. Don't disturb it during this time. Check the glue bottle for specific drying time recommendations.
Once dry, carefully remove all clamps. For extra strength, you can reinforce each corner by drilling small pilot holes and inserting tiny finishing nails or brad nails from the outside edge into each corner. Use a nail set to countersink the nails slightly below the surface.
If you added nails, fill the small holes with wood filler that matches your wood type. Also fill any small gaps or imperfections in the corners. Let the filler dry according to package directions, then sand smooth with fine-grit sandpaper.
Apply your choice of finish: stain, paint, or clear coat. Use a brush or cloth to apply evenly, following the wood grain. Apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat, allowing proper drying time between coats. Sand lightly between coats with very fine sandpaper if needed.
Allow the final finish to dry and cure completely according to the product instructions. This usually takes 24-48 hours. Make sure the frame is in a dust-free, well-ventilated area while drying.
Measure the inside opening of your frame. Cut a piece of backing board (cardboard, thin plywood, or foam board) to fit exactly. If using glass, have it cut to size at a hardware store or carefully cut acrylic sheet yourself. The backing and glass should fit snugly but not too tightly.
Clean the glass thoroughly. Place the glass in the frame from the back, then lay your photo or artwork on top of the glass (facing forward), then place the backing board behind it. Everything should fit snugly in the frame opening.
Use small glazier points or framing points to secure the backing board against the artwork and glass. Push them into the inside edge of the frame using a putty knife or flathead screwdriver, spacing them every 3-4 inches around the frame.
Attach picture hanging wire or D-ring hangers to the back of the frame. Position them about one-third down from the top of the frame on each side. If using wire, leave some slack so the wire will be slightly above the frame top when hanging. Your frame is now complete and ready to display!